How To Build a Modern Gazebo to Enhance Your Outdoor Space

Pour concrete footings

The 6×6 posts will be attached to footings in a square that measures 101-1/2-in. to the center of the footings, or exactly eight feet between the faces of the posts.

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• All your deck and wall measurements hinge on these four posts. Ensure the footings are positioned accurately so that the posts and their faces line up in a perfect square. Use eight-foot wood spacers, or make a layout jig to ensure the spacing is correct.
• Use a rented auger or manual post hole digger to dig holes 48-in. deep and at least eight inches wide to accommodate an eight-inch concrete form tube. Both tools will come in handy as you get deeper.
• Using a reciprocating saw, cut the concrete forming tubes to 48-in. and insert them into the holes. Make sure the tubes are seated in the bottom of the hole and flush to the soil level. If you have a grade variance, make sure the tops of the cement tubes are level with each other. Check their levelness with a piece of wood and a six-foot level.
• For improved drainage around the footings, start by filling the concrete form tubes with six inches of sand followed by six inches of gravel. Use a tamper to compact the sand and gravel at the bottom of the tube form and eliminate air pockets. Make sure the sand and gravel are as compacted as possible.
• Fill the form tubes with concrete, double-checking the height of all the tubes to ensure they are level. If the concrete form tube has empty space around it once in the hole, backfill it with dirt and sand to prevent it from moving. Allow the cement to cure overnight before proceeding to the next step.

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Attach post bases to footings

To attach the posts to the footings, you will be installing galvanized post bases on top of each cured footing as follows:

• Before screwing the post bases to the footings, simply set your post bases on top of each dried footing and measure to make sure the placement is as you intended for the wood posts. This is your second opportunity to make sure they are all level and the four post bases are square to each other.
• Once you are confident of the placement of the post bases, drill 1/2-in. holes with a masonry bit and hammer drill in your footings to secure the included post base bolts. Ensure the hole is drilled deep enough so the head of the five-inch bolt sits flush or below the line where the actual post will sit on the post base.
• After drilling and vacuuming out debris from the holes for the post bases, use a caulk gun to fill each hole with high-strength acrylic anchoring adhesive, insert the bolt, and secure the post base to the footing with a nut. Allow the anchoring adhesive to cure.

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Mark and drill the posts

With galvanized post bases secured on top of each concrete footing, set the 6×6 posts in position within the metal post base. Use a post level to verify each post sits plumb and level. The post bases have pre-drilled holes in their metal tabs designed to hold the post with a bolt from side to side.

Mark holes for bolt placement on both sides of each wood post. Once holes are marked, pull the wood post out of the post base, lay them down on the ground and drill holes, as straight as possible, from the marked locations on each side of the 6×6 post so they meet in the middle. Once through test that they are straight enough for the carraige bolt to slide through before moving on.

Note: While the posts are on the ground, cut the two 35-1/2-in. stub wall posts from the gazebo’s back 6×6 posts.

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Frame the deck

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• Cut all the 2×6 joists and rim joists to build the deck structure.
• Nail the joists and rim joists together using a framing nailer as in the drawing above with both sides of the post bases being straddled by deck joists running in the opposite direction as the decking will be laid. Most composite decking manufacturers say you need floor joists every 16-in., but in my experience, it is better to have them closer as composite decking tends to flex.
• Check that the deck frame is square and level. Concrete deck blocks on a pad of gravel help hold the frame in place as you attach the joists.
• Using a carriage bolt installed parallel to the joists, secure the 6×6 posts to the metal post base, through the holes in the post base and the holes you pre-drilled in the posts in the previous step.
• Drill a hole for a second carriage bolt that will sandwich together the 6×6 posts and the two deck joists straddling them. Ensure that your deck frame and posts are square and level before drilling them. Drilling these holes straight will be challenging since you will require a long drill bit with some flex to it, and some of the floor joists will be in the way. It’s just a matter of making your hole straight enough for the carriage bolt to pass through and staying clear of the metal tabs on the post base.
• Place the longer, 10-inch carriage bolts through the posts and the joist and tighten them down to secure the deck frame and 6×6 posts.
• For support and stability, install two rows of 2×6 blocking 39-in. in from each side of the deck and staggard along the lines to aid in nailing. The only critical blocking piece placement is the one set 17 -1/2-in. over from the front posts, which will serve as the anchor for the short stub wall post. Install the blocking pieces plumb using a Speed square.
• Install the stub wall posts in line with the front corner posts tight against the blocking and flush with the bottom of the joists. Use screws to hold them in place and a carriage bolt through the post and joists to secure them.

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Install the decking

To avoid the hassle of hidden fastener clips, we decided to use composite decking screws and plugs that match the finish of the composite decking. Here is how the decking was installed:

• Cover the outer faces of the rim joists with composite decking pieces that will serve as skirt boards. Miter these boards to fit in the corners.
• To prevent water from leaking between the deck boards and rotting the framing, cover the tops of all joists and any blocking with joist tape.
• Around the outer frame of our deck, install the picture frame border of mitered deck boards that overhang the face of the skirt boards by half an inch. Use the four deck boards you purchased without the grooves for them. Prior to screwing them down, ensure you have calculated the exact dimensions you will need, including the spacing between each deck board. It is more critical that your frame is square than that the half-inch overhang surrounding the skirt board remains constant, so make adjustments as necessary.
• Fill in the picture frame border by securing the top composite decking boards to the joists, starting at the center of the deck and working toward the edges. When you reach the posts, measure and cut around them to maintain the spacing between deck boards. Plan on hiding any deck boards that you will need to rip narrower near the walls to make them less obvious.

Frame the stub and back walls

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• Frame the two 96-in. wide x 30-in. tall stub walls to be installed on the sides of the structure, with studs set 16-in. on center. Secure these to the posts and deck joists using three-inch screws, ensuring the posts are plumb before locking them in place.
• Frame the two 12-in. wide x 30-in. tall stub walls to be installed between the front posts and the front stub wall post near the gazebo’s entrance. Secure these to the posts using three-inch screws again double-checking that the posts are plumb before locking them into place.
• Frame the 96-in. wide back wall to be installed between the gazebo back posts. The top of this wall is framed so the top plate sits at a 14-degree angle (the same pitch as the roof), so the wall height should be built to 80-in. to the highest side of the top plate. Construct this wall with studs 16-in. on center, ensuring there is a stud directly in the center of the wall. Secure the back wall to the posts and deck blocking using three-inch screws.

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Frame the front arch

• Frame the 96-in. wide x 24-7/8-in. tall top wall to be installed between the gazebo front posts. This wall has a matching 14-degree top plate as the back wall. It is also framed with studs 16-in. on center with one directly in the center. The tricky part about constructing this wall is cutting the arch.
• I knew I wanted the arch to be 60 inches wide by 7-1/2-in. deep, so after conducting some calculations, I determined that a router circle cutting jig with a radius of 63-3/4-in. would be required to make the arch. Using scrap OSB and 2x4s, I constructed the jig, marking the arch with a 1/8-in. deep router pass. Having routed the arch a little bit, I used a circular saw and handsaw to finish cutting through the 2x4s to ensure the cuts remained square.
• Install 2×4 blocking between the cut studs to ensure that they remain in place and are sturdy.
• Install the top wall between the front 6×6 posts. Screw it into place so that the bottom plate on the arch wall is 80-1/2-in. from the surface of the deck.

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Frame the roof

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• Like to how the deck joists straddle the posts on the deck the roof rafters will straddle the posts on the roof frame. Cut the rafters and fascia boards to length, and both ends of the rafters to 14-degrees (roof pitch is 3/12 or 14 degrees).
• In a large flat area on the ground, nail together just the four rafters that straddle the posts and the front and back fascia boards.
• With a couple extra sets of hands (and ladders), walk the four rafter/fascia section over to the structure and set it on top of the front arch wall and the back wall of the structure. Align it so the rafters land on each side of the 6×6 posts.
• Adjust the overhang on the front and back of the roof so the fascia board hangs over each end by 16-in.
• After checking that the four rafter/fascia section is square, secure it to the 6×6 posts with a 10-in. carriage bolt that sandwiches together the posts and the two rafters straddling them. Use three-inch screws to hold the pieces in place while drilling for the carriage bolts.
• Affix the remaining rafters to the fascia boards, 18-in. on center, starting in the center, in order to accommodate the width of the metal roofing peaks. Toe nail them to the top plates of the front arch and back wall, as well.
• Use a reciprocating saw with a long wood blade to cut the top of the 6×6 posts off flush to the top of the roof rafters.

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Install the roof

• Cover the top of the roof frame with T1-11 tongue and groove slatted panels facing down into the interior of the gazebo, beginning at the back and working forward. Use a narrow crown stapler to attach them to the rafters, so that the tongue on the panels edge will serve as a catch on the next panel. Stagger the seams using full and cut sheets until the entire roof frame is clad.
• Install metal drip edge along the outer edge of the whole roof. Use tin snips to cut the drip edge to length and help form the bends at the corners.
• Install self-adhesive foam closure strips along the inner edge of the drip edge at the front and back of the structure. These foam strips are contoured to follow the peaks and valleys of the roof. They help keep weather, debris, and insects from making their way under the ends of the roofing panels.
• The metal roofing panels measure 36-in.wide by 12-ft. long. They interlock as you lay one ridged edge over another. Secure the metal roofing panels to the rafters with roofing screws equipped with rubber gaskets every 24-in. to seal the screw holes from water. Also, use butyl sealant tape at the seams connecting the metal roof panels. This will give an added layer of water protection and help prevent the metal panels from shifting as you secure them down.
• Install eave flashing across the roof line at the front of the gazebo. Together with the foam closure strips, this is the second layer of defense designed to prevent the elements from getting under the metal roofing.
• On the inside, add 2×6 blocking between the rafters on top of the framed back and arch walls to help enclose the interior.

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Using pre-finished siding

As part of this project, we utilized a variety of pre-finished siding. The exterior and interior surfaces of the back wall, as well as the front of the arched wall, are covered with board and batten siding composed of 4×8 textured siding panels and 1×2 textured trim pieces. For the exterior of the side walls and two front stub walls, we used 8-in. lap siding, while all the interior walls (with the exception of the back wall) were clad with smooth 4×8 siding panels. Here are a few tips for installing prefinished siding:

• All cut edges must be sealed before installation to prevent the siding from absorbing moisture. Seal the cuts with a clear or color-matched exterior-rated topcoat.
• Make sure that there is a gap of 1/8 – 1/4-in. between all the prefinished pieces being installed – at the ends of lap siding, between panels and posts, etc. These gaps will be caulked or covered with 1×2 trim pieces.
• Whenever a piece of siding meets the decking, leave a gap of 5/16 – 3/8-in. This will allow the siding to dry out after a rainstorm.

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Build the triangular side walls

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After the roof has been erected, frame the upper triangular side walls on the ground. These walls should extend all the way up to the T1-11 siding on the underside of the roof and finish 48-in. above the top of the framing on the lower wall. Before securing them between the 6×6 posts, clad the exterior side of each with eight-inch lap siding (7-21/25-in. actual size). Start flush with the bottom of the framing and work your way up. You should overlap each piece of siding by one inch and cut off the siding pieces flush with the triangular wall shape.

Lift the walls and secure them with three-inch screws through the framing on the side that is not covered with siding.

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Install the siding

• Cut and clad the interior of all walls, except the back wall, with smooth pre-finished siding panels. Using a siding nailer set, sink each nailhead just a hair beneath the surface of the pre-finished siding so they will become undetectable once filled and painted.
• Cover both sides of the back wall with textured pre-finished siding panels run vertically so that the center seam lines up with the center stud of the back wall. The panels should be nailed every 8 – 12-in. along each stud.
• Clad the exterior of the side and front walls with eight-inch lap siding. Install your first piece 5/16 – 3/8-in. off the decking, nailing it into each stud on the upper inch of the piece.
• The top edge of your fourth piece of lap siding should just barely overhang the bottom edge of the top plate on your framing. Finish off these walls by running a piece of 1×2 trim strip across the top, made from the same material as the batten.

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Clad the arch wall

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• Attach smooth siding panels to the interior of the gazebo, the height of the arch wall, with the seam centered on the center stud. For the time being, let the panels hang long over the arch.
• Using nails and construction adhesive, secure two layers of 1/2-in. x 3-1/2-in. flexible PVC trim to the ends of the cut arch studs, one over the other, to form the bend. Once secured, trim the PVC trim ends flat to the bottom face of the framing bottom plate.
• Cut out the arch of the interior siding flush to the bottom of the PVC trim. The easiest way to cut this arch was to use a jigsaw and oscillating tool to cut it close, and a router equipped with a flush trim bit to smooth it out.
• Once the interior arch has been cut, clad the exterior of the arch with textured siding panels and follow the same process to cut the siding to the contour of the arch.
• Install 2×4 blocks to cover the bottom plate of the framing and the ends of the PVC trim on the bottom sides of the arch. Wrap these 2×4 blocks in 1×2 batten trim strips, mitering the exposed corners.
• Immediately below that, install a reveal block of 1/2-inch thick lumber the same size as the 2×4 block above it wrapped in batten trim.
• Cap off the reveal block with a piece of 2×6 material the same length as the initial 2×4 block including the batten trim it is wrapped in.
• Finally, seal and cover the visible edges of the cut siding on the underside of the arch with 1/2-in. x 3/4-in. pieces of flexible PVC trim cut from a full 3-1/2-in. piece.

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Install the battens

Attach horizontal 1×2 battens at the top and bottom of both sides of the back wall, the top of the arch wall, and around the base on the gazebo’s interior. Use exterior-rated wood glue and two-inch brad nails to secure these.

Then, proceed to secure the vertical battens. Use a level to align them with the studs on both sides of the back wall and the outside and center studs on the arched wall. Last but not least, install two battens at the corners of the arch.

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Install 2×6 caps

Install 2×6 caps on the tops and undersides of the clad walls using exterior-grade wood glue and countersunk three-inch screws. Align them so the edges are flush with the 6×6 posts. Overhang the front stub wall posts by 3/4-in.

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Finishing touches

• Use composite decking plugs to fill all screw holes. Companies that manufacture composite decking sell matching plugs to go with their screws. Be sure to order the appropriate plugs that match your decking finish. Line up the grain and tap them flush with a mallet.
• Ensure that all siding seams, gaps, and nail/screw holes are caulked or filled.
• Use color-matched paint to touch up the paint.
• Build a gravel path and composite decking step in front of the gazebo if needed.
• Lay mulch or landscape the area around the structure.

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Add screens (optional)

Due to the high mosquito population in the upper Midwest during the summer months, we decided to add screens to the front and sides of the gazebo.

Hidden behind the arched wall, a roll-down screen was installed across the front of the gazebo, keeping pests out and creating shade during peak summer temperatures. We purchased a standard eight-foot wide roll-down screen from Amazon and followed the simple manufacturer instructions for installation. For the installation of side screens:

• Install two 2×6 mullions between the caps on the top and bottom walls to create three equal 45-in. tall x 31-in. wide openings. Secure the mullions in place with exterior-rated wood glue and pocket screws.
• Construct the six screens using aluminum frame screen kits purchased at the home center. Make sure your screens are 1/4 inch smaller in both directions than your openings.
• As a stop, trim the inside of every screen opening with 3/4-in. x 3/4-in. trim pieces all around the opening. Cut these pieces from the same material as the wall caps and mullions.  To ensure that the screen is centered in the opening from front to back, offset them 5/32-in. towards the exterior side of center.
• Push the screens tightly against the 3/4-in. by 3/4-in. trim pieces on the interior of the gazebo. Install 1-1/2-in. trim head screws covered with white wire shelving caps against the interior side of the aluminum frame of the screen to hold them in place.

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FAQ

Do gazebos increase property value?

Yes, gazebos can increase property value by enhancing outdoor living space and curb appeal, particularly in areas where outdoor entertainment is popular year-round.

What’s the difference between a pergola and a gazebo?

The roof. Pergolas typically have an open or slatted roof, which offers partial shade, whereas gazebos have solid roofs that offer complete weather and sun protection.

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