Create perfectly imperfect planters with this hypertufa recipe.
Time Multiple Days
ComplexityBeginner
Cost$10 - $60
Introduction
Craft these weather-resistant, personalized hypertufa planters that provide the perfect growing environment to grow your favorite plants.
My experience playing with Hypertufa extends over many years. I say playing because the creative opportunities are endless. I have made everything from water features to Buddha heads out of Hypertufa. Planters are an excellent introduction to hypertufa as a material, so let’s walk through the steps for making a hypertufa planter from scratch.
What is hypertufa?
Hypertufa is an easy DIY cement mix made with Portland cement that is lighter than traditional cement mixtures. Hypertufa is durable. It can live outdoors and lends itself to either a smooth, polished look or a rough, rustic texture. The secret to the finish is in the mold you use. The secret to living outdoors, at freezing temperatures, is in the ratio of the mix. Hypertufa conforms like clay, can take on many forms and is inexpensive. Here is a wonderful introduction to Portland cement and the possibilities it holds.
Tools Required
- Cement mixing trough
- larger plastic tub for water soaking
- Plastic tub for mold
- Screwdriver
- small container for measuring
- Small garden shovel
- Spray Bottle
- Wire brush
Materials Required
- 1/2" steel mesh screen
- 3 mil plastic
- Clean water
- Dowel
- Peat Moss
- Perlite
- Portland cement
- Rubber gloves
Project step-by-step (12)
Step 1
Select the hypertufa mold
The mold will determine the final finish and texture of the hypertufa planter in which it is cast. For a smooth, polished appearance, choose a plastic tub with a smooth, shiny finish. If you want a textured look like us, line a plastic tub with a plastic liner. Allow the wrinkles to form in the plastic liner and embed into the wet hypertufa cement.
Step 2
Mix the hypertufa ingredients
Mix together the dry ingredients: two quarts perlite, two quarts peat moss and two quarts Portland cement. The dry Portland cement and peat moss tend to clump and become difficult to break down when you add water, so sift them through a 1/2-in. steel mesh screen first.
Once sifted, to ensure even distribution of materials, mix the dry material by hand or with a garden shovel to blend well.
Step 3
Slowly add water
Slowly add water as you thoroughly mix the materials. It is important not to overwet the mix. Shoot for a consistency like a thick brownie mix. If you can make a ball out of the mix and it stays in shape, you’ve added the right amount of water.
Step 4
Transfer the Hypertufa mix into the plastic tub
Put on a pair of plastic gloves and transfer the hypertufa mix into the plastic-lined tub. Start by building up at least an inch of Hypertufa mix on the bottom of the tub for the base, and work your way up the tub’s sides to create walls at least an inch thick.
Step 5
Bore out a drain hole
Every planter needs a drain hole to ensure proper drainage and prevent root rot. With a wood dowel or your finger, create a one-inch-ish drain hole in the bottom of the planter. Depending on the size of your planter, you may opt for two holes six to nine inches apart.
Step 6
Finishing touches
This is the last opportunity to shape and form the wet hypertufa mix. Whatever stage you leave it in now is how it will dry and cure. Be sure to smooth out the top lip of the planter, make sure corners are defined and all four walls are about the same thickness.
Step 7
Cure for 24 hours
Fold the plastic liner over the top of the hypertufa and leave it in the mold to cure for 24-hours. If your plastic mold container has a lid, use this as well. The plastic liner and/or lid will prevent moisture from escaping too quickly and slow down drying time. Slowing down the drying time will help prevent the hypertufa from developing cracks and weakening the planter.
Step 8
De-mold and clean up
De-molding is easy when using a non-porous plastic tub like ours. But if you decide to use another porous material (such as wood) in the future, you will want to use a lubricant such as vegetable or olive oil sprayed or brushed on the mold.
When mixing Portland cement with Perlite and peat moss, you may find small loose particles of these elements attached to the outer surface but not fully embedded. To clean loose bits of material, use a wire brush to remove them. This step is more about aesthetics than it is about the durability of the planter. It’s about the look you like.
Step 9
Complete the drying process
Once the planter has been de-molded, it will still not be dry. You will want to continue the slow drying process by wrapping the whole planter in plastic for five to seven days and misting it with water every 24 hours. You will know it is dry when it looks even in color, and no moisture is visible. Moisture can be detected by uneven, darker grey spots in the Hypertufa.
While drying, the drain hole may become glazed over with a thin layer of cement. Use a dowel or screwdriver to clean it out before the drying process.
Step 10
Transition to a tub of water
The last step is to ensure your planter is no longer holding the lime from the cement. Lime can mix into your potting soil and hurt your plants. To allow the lime to leach out, submerge the entire planter in a tub of water for seven days.
Step 11
Remove planter from water, Rinse off and plant
To ensure any remnants of Lime have been removed from the planter, give it a good rinse before adding dirt and planting.
Step 12
FAQ
What is the difference between concrete and cement?
Concrete is cement with an aggregate of sand and gravel added to it for strength. Cement is just the Portland cement powder. It becomes concrete when you add sand and gravel.
Does Hypertufa work with water for water features?
Yes, Hypertufa is often used for water features and is well-suited to water exposure. If your water feature will be exposed to freezing temperatures, be sure to add sand to the mix to help prevent cracking.
