The Best Way to Plant Grass Seed for a Lush Lawn

Get a soil analysis

Wait to begin reseeding until you get the results of a soil analysis. Contact a local extension service or search the Internet for a soil-testing lab near you. Send them a sample, and they’ll give you a report with recommendations about which fertilizers or soil treatments to add.

• Select three different locations around your lawn and collect samples.
• Plunge your spade about 6 in. deep and pull out a plug of soil.
• Slice off a section of the plug (top to bottom).
• Remove the grass and rocks, then mix all the samples together in a container.
• Note on the lab form that you’ll be planting new grass and whether you bag the clippings when you mow or return them to the lawn.

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Remove the old lawn

There are three ways to remove your existing lawn. While physically demanding, it is necessary for this reseeding lawn project.

Use chemical herbicides:

• Cover nearby plants with a tarp.
• Choose a calm day and hold the spray head close to the grass to prevent overspray.
• Apply chemical herbicides like Roundup or Killzall following the manufacturer’s instructions.
• Allow the chemicals to work for several days to a week.
• Use a rigid tine garden rake to rip up all the dead grass and weeds.

Remove by hand:

• Rent a sod cutter to remove the lawn surface. This works well as a chemical alternative or if you have a large area to reseed.

Smother grass with plastic sheeting:

• Lay black poly film (4 mil or thicker) across all lawn areas you wish to remove.
• Remove the poly when the grass is dry and brown (two to three weeks or longer, depending on the weather).
• Use a rigid tine rake to rip up all the dead grass and weeds.

FAMILY HANDYMAN

Improve the soil

Putting a few inches of black soil on top of the old soil will not fix it. “Adding good-quality black topsoil over bad soil is like putting chocolate frosting on a stale cake—it doesn’t fix the underlying problem,” Bob Mugaas, Extension Educator in Horticulture with the University of Minnesota Extensions, says. Instead, rent a tiller to till in the soil conditioners recommended by the soil analysis.

• Spread the conditioners across the entire lawn.
• Till them into the soil to a depth of about five inches.

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Smooth the soil

Grass seed needs smooth and level ground to get the best germination. And it needs good seed-to-soil contact.

• Remove all rocks and debris
• Level and smooth the soil with a broom rake.
• Drag the rake (tines up) to create “furrows” for this reseeding lawn job.

Add a starter fertilizer

A starter fertilizer gives grass seed the nutrients it needs to germinate and grow quickly. Consult with a local nursery to find the best starter fertilizer for the seed you select.

• Spread lawn starter fertilizer into the furrows with a spreader. Follow the instructions on the bag for the proper spread rate for a new lawn and apply the fertilizer. Don’t overdo it.

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Pick seed to match your site

Consult with the grass expert at a garden center to select a seed that matches your site conditions, lawn care preferences and budget. Ask about low-maintenance and drought-resistant varieties.

• Purchase grass seed by the bag or in bulk, by the pound. But buy just what you need.
• Don’t apply the leftover seed—extra seed actually reduces the germination rate.

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Spread the seed

Load the seed into a spreader and apply it for the reseeding lawn work. Make sure it doesn’t fly into nearby gardens.

• Adjust the spreader’s settings to the recommended seed rate on the seed bag.
• Add the grass seed to the spreader’s hopper.
• Walk evenly in rows, overlapping slightly to ensure even coverage.
• Complete two full intersecting passes across the lawn, one north/south and one east/west.

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Rake and compact the soil

Once the seed is down, rake to cover the furrows as shown. Fill a sod roller halfway with water and roll the seed to pack the soil and seed mixture.

• Turn the broom rake upside down and drag it side-to-side over the furrows until only 10 to 15 percent of the seed remains uncovered.
• Compact the soil with a sod roller to get good seed-to-soil contact.

Add mulch or grass seed accelerator

Grass seed accelerator or compost mulch both help soil retain moisture while seeds germinate. Choose one method for your reseeding project.

Grass seed accelerator:

• Set the spreader to the widest setting and walk quickly to get a light application of the pellets. This accelerator absorbs moisture and slowly releases it.

Compost mulch:

• Cover the soil with compost mulch to retain water during germination.

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Water (but not too much)

“Most people overwater new seed. Just keep the soil damp for the best germination,” Mugaas says. Place an impact sprinkler in the corner of the lawn and set it to spray in a quarter arc. Once that area is watered, move it to the remaining corners for full coverage. Always adjust watering schedules for rainfall, temperature and wind.

New seed:

At this early stage, aim to keep the top inch of topsoil damp. “This requires short and frequent watering cycles to help keep the seed moist,” says Craig Elworthy, founder of Lawnbright.

• Water new seed two to three times per day for five to 10 minutes, depending on soil dampness and weather.
• Stop if you see puddles forming.

Seedlings:

Keep watering regularly as the seedlings appear and grow.

• Water twice per day for 10 to 15 minutes each. Aim for 15 minutes in the morning and 10 minutes in the afternoon.

Developing lawn:

As the lawn becomes established, continue to adjust your watering schedule.

• Gradually reduce the watering over a six-week period. “Once you see sufficient germination (over 60 to 70 percent of your seed has sprouted) you can back off to watering once or twice a day,” Elworthy says.
• Then switch to your normal watering routine of once or twice per week.

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Cut the grass

Mow the new lawn once it reaches a height of 3 inches. Use a new or sharpened blade to make sharp, clean slicing cuts. Avoid using a dull blade—it rips the grass, setting up the conditions for disease.

• Set the cutting height to 2-1/2 in.
• Cut just 1/2 in. per mowing.

FAQ

When is the best time to reseed a lawn?

In cold climates, plant new grass seed in early to mid-April or mid-August to mid-September. In warm-weather climates, plant in late spring/early summer.

How often should you water a reseeded lawn?

The goal is to keep the top inch of soil damp for the first few weeks. “Depending on the climate and the time of year, you could be watering five times per day at 10 minutes per session for the first 3 weeks,” Elworthy says, or less often if during cool and cloudy weather. Once most of the seed germinates, reduce waterings to once or twice a day. A month or so later, you can return to a watering schedule of once or twice a week.

How long does it take for a reseeded lawn to grow?

“It depends on the type of seed. Annual ryegrass can germinate in as little as two to three days. On the other end of the spectrum, Kentucky Bluegrass can take up to 21 days to germinate. So it all depends on the type of seed you choose,” Elworthy says.

Can you walk on a reseeded lawn?

“Despite what you’ve probably heard, you can walk on a newly seeded lawn – right up until you start seeing evidence of new growth,” Elworthy says. “Walking on the lawn immediately after seeding will compact the soil, which helps achieve seed-to-soil contact, which is essential for germination.” Stop walking on the area once seedlings emerge, and give them three weeks to grow before walking on the lawn again.

About the Experts

• Bob Mugaas is an Extension Educator in Horticulture with the University of Minnesota Extension. Bob has authored or co-authored more than 200 articles on various topics related to turfgrass management.
• Craig Elworthy is the founder of Lawnbright; he’s combined his 20+ years of tech experience with his knowledge of lawns to help his clients learn what it takes to fix a patchy lawn.